Vitamin C In Focus

Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid (in its purest form) is a naturally occurring water-soluble antioxidant that is required to maintain collagen production, amongst other things. As collagen is an essential protein and one of the major building blocks required for healthy youthful looking skin, vitamin C is vital in maintaining a radiant, glowing complexion.

A superior antioxidant, vitamin C also fights free radicals within skin cells. Free radicals are unpaired electrons that cause oxidative stress and harm, which over time can result in visible skin damage including wrinkles, fine lines and discolouration. Antioxidants protect and restore balance within the skin by producing a partner for the unpaired electron, therefore stabilising and removing its ability to harm skin cells. Vitamin C can be obtained in many forms including through diet, nutritional supplements, and the topical application of vitamin C enriched skincare products.

Not an unusual debate when it comes to skin care ingredients, and there are pros and cons for both forms of Vitamin C. Understanding the science behind skincare and skincare ingredients, combined with your own understanding of your skin types, can help you to make an informed decision that will hopefully help you to get the results you desire from your products.

The key difference between Natural Vitamin C and Ascorbic Acid (and variations) is obviously that one is natural and the other is synthetic, however the pH levels also dramatically differ. Natural Vitamin C has a pH of 6 to pH neutral, while Ascorbic Acid has a pH of 1 to 2.5. The pH of Ascorbic Acid is potentially quite damaging and can cause redness and irritation, especially when applied topically, which is why the other ingredients in the formula need to be thoughtfully considered as they are generally used to mitigate the higher pH of ascorbic acid.
A key factor in the efficacy of natural Vitamin C over synthetic is that natural forms of vitamin C come with compatible phytonutrients and bioflavinoids that protect and enhance absorption of the vitamin C unlike synthetic vitamin C which can require a host of other ingredients to maintain its efficacy. It’s not uncommon for skincare companies to skimp on these cofactors and this is what can lead to skin irritation. Which is why it is so important to do the research on the brands and products you intend to use.

Pure vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is a potent and refined version of vitamin C. The antioxidant benefits of L-ascorbic acid work to neutralise free radicals and reduce signs of skin damage. While the benefits of l-ascorbic acid make it an ideal ingredient in skincare products, the best results are only gained when formulated correctly. Pure vitamin C will only be able to penetrate the skin if it has been formulated with a relatively low pH level as this neutralises any charged molecules. Without removing the charged molecules, the L-ascorbic acid is unlikely to deliver effective results to the skin.

Other vitamin C derivatives include: sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, retinyl ascorbate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. It’s important to note that these derivatives are not pure vitamin C, rather they are combined with other ingredients, which might help to keep the vitamin C stable.

A stable, oil-based form of vitamin C, tetrahexyldecyl has emerged as one of the stronger antioxidant supplement formulations. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is also effective on sensitive and damaged skin without causing further irritation as it is able to deeply penetrate skin, more effectively delivering its benefits.

Medik8’s C-Tetra Luxe serum contains tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. Using this super-stable, lipid-soluble form of vitamin C alongside skin-nourishing vitamin E, the formula sinks deep into skin to provide powerful antioxidant protection against free radicals and generally (depending on your skin type) does so with minimal irritation.

If you are new to Vitamin C, we recommend slowly introducing your skin with Medik8’s Daily Radiance Vitamin C Cream which is a hydrating vitamin C cream, containing a less concentrated dose of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (than C-Tetra Luxe Serum) and delivers the glow inducing effects of Vitamin C, powerful antioxidant protection alongside non-greasy broad spectrum sun protection. Daily use of this face cream will help condition your skin to the Vitamin C and provided it does not cause irritation you could then introduce a Vitamin C serum.

Many plants contain significant amounts of Vitamin C and have as been integrated into skin care for their glowing inducing, protective and reparative benefits, from kakadu plum, to rosehip, kiwi seed, acerola and many more. Vitamin C found in plants is generally found with cofactors called Bioflavonoids, which are a collection of plant-based antioxidants that help transport and enhance the benefits of other antioxidants such as vitamin C. When this rich antioxidant is compounded with vitamin C, the bioflavonoids strengthen and enhance its effects for skin, while also slowing the vitamin C decomposition process.

Natural Vitamin C in skincare tends to have a gentler effect on skin, and suits those with more sensitive skin types. Depending on the form of vitamin C in natural plant based products, your skin may not as readily absorb and convert the vitamin C into it’s most efficacious form and it may take longer to see changes to your skin.

For natural vitamin C options we are big fans of Maryse’s Bio Nutrient Face Oil which contains Vitamin C rich Kiwi seed oil plus a host of synergistic nutrients to aid absorption and Lesse’s Ritual Serum, containing in acerola, well known for it’s high concentration of Vitamin C.

Emma Lewisham’s Illuminating Day Cream and Skin Reset Serum, also offer potent formulas for brightening, evening tone and protecting skin, containing multiple natural forms of Vitamin C. Emma Lewisham have upped the stakes when it comes to natural skin care formulations by combining potent ingredients in concentrations levels up to four times higher than other brands, plus have a solid understanding of the synergy of these natural ingredients supported by their team of green scientists and up to 5 years of research and testing. Like with most skin care products that contain more active ingredients, we recommend slowly introducing them to your skin, starting with every second to third day/night initially and building from there.

For younger skin types and very sensitive skin types, Emma Lewisham’s Illuminating Exfoliant can be a good way to introduce Vitamin C, leaving it on the skin for at least 30 seconds before washing off to ensure some of the product is absorbed.

Vitamin C isn’t for all complexions, some will find it too irritating or it may cause breakouts. For those who fall into this category, there is no need for complete FOMO! There are some great alternatives available that offer the same benefits of brighter, even toned, healthy and youthful skin.

LED light therapy utilised on a regular basis, we recommend LED light treatments as a first aid tool for skin irritation and flare ups of skin conditions, reducing pigmentation and scarring and helping you to reveal a glowing, even toned complexion. Available at FENN as either a stand alone treatment or incorporated into facials.

Medik8 Copper PCA Peptides is a serum centred around copper PCA, a mineral peptide patented by Medik8 for its unprecedented antioxidant power, this serum neutralises a broad spectrum of skin-damaging free radicals to leave the complexion looking smooth, youthful and undeniably radiant. A patented, extraordinary ingredient with 40 times greater antioxidant performance than vitamin C.* Revolutionary copper PCA protects the skin from damaging free radicals and leaves the complexion soothed from inflammation. (*Results from 3rd party independent tests assessing antioxidant performance against peroxynitrite radical.)