Skin Barrier Health

POV: You got too excited about a new chemical exfoliant that promised fresh, glowing skin and may have overdone it to the point that now everything you put on your face stings.

As innocent as some itchy, irritated, or burning skin may seem, it’s actually a sign that you damaged your skin barrier - the “shield” that determines how your skin looks and feels. And once you mess with it, it can lead to breakouts, rashes, premature wrinkles, and more, which is why dermatologists and facialists will tell you to go slow with at-home peels and retinol creams.

Our skin barrier is technically known as the epidermis. It can be disrupted by intrinsic or extrinsic factors, and often a combination of both. Intrinsic factors include skin barrier diseases that have a genetic component, such as eczema and ichthyosis and high levels of stress and illness. But also poor diet and lifestyle can have a significant impact.

Meanwhile, extrinsic factors include excessive exposure to harsh weather elements, such as too much sun or wind, or extremes of temperature (think going from a heated room to the biting cold outdoors – one reason why compromised barriers often show themselves during the winter season); exposure to potential chemical irritants, such as certain active skincare ingredients, like AHAs and retinoids; and soaps containing SLS or any physical irritants that can scrub the skin. Not to mention pollution, smoking, poor sleep and allergens.

Remove Triggers: The first thing you should do is identify and exclude any triggers that may be contributing to skin barrier damage. Strip your skincare routine back and keep it simple. Think cleanser, moisturiser and SPF – remove any retinoids or acids, in particular. Avoid products that:

• Strip the skin of oils, for instance anything alcohol based.
• Products that increase pH of the skin (like soap, which is very alkaline).
• Ingredients that are heavily preserved or scented that can cause inflammation.
• ingredients that can cause photosensitivity (like benzoyl peroxide).

Restore and Repair: Strategic and well formulated home care is most important. Consulting with a professional for guidance on the best products for your situation will set you up for more successful recovery.

1. When it comes to your cleanser, we recommend opting for a nourishing, calming and fragrance-free cleansing milk or cream such as Maryse’s Cleansing Balm, Medik8’s Cream Cleanse or Josh Rosebrook’s Essential Balm Cleanse.
2. Incorporate hyaluronic acid into your routine to soothe and hydrate the skin.Our go to’s are Josh Rosebrook’s Hydrating Accelerator, Medik8’s Hydr8 B5 Intense, Rationale’s #1 Hydragel
3. Seek out barrier-building ingredients like ceramides, niacinamide and fatty acids. FENN favourites include; Sans Ceuticals Superdose Sleep Mask, Hyeja’s Niacinamide Heartleaf Calming Serum, Maryse’s Omega Treatment Oil or Rationale’s #4 The Balm
4. Good oral hygiene: opting for cleaner formulas such as LOVEBYTS toothpaste and mouthwash. Ingredients in common oral care products can be harsh on your skin.

To take down inflammation and help instigate the reparative process, LED light therapy is your friend. We offer LED light therapy sessions in most of our treatments as well as a LED Light Therapy Programme, which can be a great thing to incorporate weekly to focus on repairing a damaged skin barrier.

Cut Actives Out: Then reintroduce them slowly – but only when skin is healthy again. Reintroduce one active at a time (for example, use retinoids for a few weeks before adding a Vitamin C or liquid exfoliator back in), but if you have chronic skin barrier dysfunction, you should always opt for more gentle actives. For example, you might swap retinol for a retinaldehyde (Medik8’s Crystal Retinal is a great option and a FENN favourite.) because it is gentler on the skin. In terms of acids, seek out PHAs rather than AHAs another FENN favourite is Medik8’s Press & Glow. Another great tip, use a Manuka Honey Mask as a cleanser / gentle exfoliant. The benefits are endless, gentle, antibacterial and reduces inflammation - to name a few.

Other gentle Vitamin A & C formulas we love include:

• Josh Rosebrook’s Active Infusion Oil
• Raie’s Morning Dew Vitamin C and
• Yellow Moonbeam Retinal Elixir

Lead a Balanced Lifestyle: Balance is key in your skincare routine, but what goes on internally also manifests on our skin, so leading a healthy lifestyle is key to healing and preventing future problems making a comeback. “Ensure you’re eating a healthy, balanced diet, with lots of rich fatty foods, like nuts, fruit and fish,” recommends FENN naturopath Alice Flannery. A high-quality omega oil supplement every day can be great insurance for supporting skin barrier health. “You will notice a huge difference in your skin’s resilience and overall health.”